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Post by douglaslam on Jan 5, 2012 5:38:20 GMT -5
DOING THE TOURIST THINGS I was not averse to seek out the sights that tourists go for in Xi'an. The entombed warriors were priority No1. Not until I had arrived at the site, did I realize the scale of the discovery. A Google search would give a much better description than I could muster. The figures given are staggering. There are three known pits open to tourists, others maybe under our feet. Only one terracotta warriors was found reasonably intact. All the rest were just fragments when found. Each piece of clay fragment has to be painstakingly pieced together to make a whole. There is enough work for the team of local and overseas archaeologists to go on for decades. Parts of the pits had been raided and weapons taken for use in the immediate years after the Emperor's death. WORK DONE AND WORK IN PROGRESS This is my contribution to the countless thousands of photos taken of the main pit. Work is still going on after hours. IT IS SERIOUS I do not normally like to pose with major sites, because I don't think I am important enough to intrude. But my touring companions from Malaysia think otherwise. MY TOURING GROUP We are taken to the burial mound of the first emperor of China. The area covered is measured in km. sq. It is awaiting to be opened sometime in the future. From left to right; two girls from Malaysia, the guide then, a Colombian, a Dutch and a Romanian-German. The guide thinks it is not worth the cost to go on an electric buggy just to go around the site once. She maybe right. Perhaps, she just wants to finish the tour early and go home. Only the Romanian-German is from my hostel. The rest is from a sister hostel. Back in town, we all wanted hot food as we did not have a meal break. I should have stayed with the girls from Malaysia because with the others we could not even agree on where or what to eat. THE DRUM AND BELL TOWERS The capital cities I visited all have a bell tower and a drum tower to inform the citizens of the time in the past. This is the Drum Tower in Xi'an, viewed from the entrance. Inside, there is also an exhibition of period furnishing from the homes of the aristocrats. OTHER HALF OF THE TWIN The Bell Tower seen in the distant is not open for inspection because of a major renovation. LOOKS LIKE NEW There are 24 drums like these to mark the divisions of the Chinese calendar in the old agrarian society. THE BIGGEST This is supposed to be the world's biggest drum. A meaningless record as far as I am concerned because it is a recent creation, not one passed down without the knowledge of setting a record. I missed hearing a drum performance took place earlier. I rank the bell and drum towers of Beijing more special. The climb to the Beijing Drum Tower was up a very steep and narrow staircase. My wife was not comfortable with it. When we moved to the Bell Tower, she took one look of the narrower and steeper ( 45 deg. ?) staircase, she got cold feet. She would not budge. It was after much reassuring that she relented. I told her I'd be behind her, and if she should fall I would be there as a cushion. Coming down was equally scary for her.
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Post by douglaslam on Jan 6, 2012 6:41:49 GMT -5
I saw much of the inner city attractions in one day. It was a lot of walking, slow walking, about seven hours. Apart from the Drum Tower, I also came upon the City God Temple. GATEWAY City God temples are found in Shanghai and Beijing, and perhaps most big population centres. This is the gateway to the temple in Xi'an. Unlike Shanghai, entry is free here. I refused to pay while I was in Shanghai. This is the main archway through which the various halls devoted to the deities are found. It is probably hundreds of years old. Because of its age and neglect, the wear and tear is obvious. Restoration works are going on. Any where I go, antiquities are found in a bad state. This is in stark contrast to what I see on TV on how well are those churches, cathedrals , public buildings, and monuments are maintained in Europe. Close up of the archway. Much TLC is needed to bring it back to shiny best. THE FIERY ONE Chinese beliefs can be very confusing. The line is often blur between Taoism and Buddhism, the two main beliefs. Taoism has a long history of over four thousand years. It is a home-grown religion but its reaches never extended beyond China's borders. People in different parts of China worship different deities. The God of Fire resides in this hall. I am not at all familiar with this Deity. In Sth. China for example, the Taoism deity Wong Tai Sin commands a huge following in Hong Kong. Yet, he is little heard of elsewhere in China. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wong_Tai_Sin Tin Hau is another example. She is venerated in the maritime provinces like Fujian, Guangdong and Taiwan, as well as by much of the Chinese in Indo-China and S.E. Asia. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin_Hau Further inland, she is not as well known. All the effigies and idols I see here and elsewhere are poor replicas of the original. Irrespective of one's religious leaning, it represents an assault on China's artistic past. One mad man almost completely destroyed China's creative heritage. ONE THAT GOT AWAY This is a big incense burner. With its inscription extolling the virtues of winning top honours in the imperial examination, it should not have survived Mao's endless onslaughts. It should have been melted down when Mao launched his lunatic backyard blast furnaces to make steel from all things existing metal objects. It should not have survived the Cultural Revolution with its link to religion and imperial honours. AN ODDITY Once I read in Time magazine a description of Shanghai as just like New York, but with a much bigger Chinatown. This sign fails to attract me as I think it's just another shopping centre.
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Post by douglaslam on Jan 7, 2012 0:47:17 GMT -5
THE MUSLIM QUARTER I didn't have to look hard for the Muslim quarters. It was still morning when I roamed the streets. It sure was a busy hub with delivery vehicles, pedestrian traffic, and shoppers mingling in the narrow streets. The variety of shops and eateries left me with deep impressions, none more so than the meat shops. CAN YOU STOMACH THE STOMACH All three photos show how innards or offal are put on sale, There is little attention to hygiene. What looks like cow livers and tripe are left on the floor or in bags on the footpath. What it is like in those hot summer days with flies buzzing one can only guess. Taking shots of whole carcasses on hooks hang next to a dirty wall without permission may not be a good idea. I take caution not to offend when pointing the camera. I leave them alone. NUTS ARE A SAFE BET There are many, many nut and spice shops owned by the Muslim minority. Xinkiang province produces large variety of nuts, grapes, and melons. Walnuts are very popular. The round tub is a walnut roaster. INEXPENSIVE MEAL I am not sure how to order a meal in a Muslim restaurant except the pull noodle place. Here I am sampling a flat cake that was baked by sticking to the side of the oven, not unlike the Indian kind. It is a savoury, light and tasty snack at 3 RMB. When taken with a cup of hot soy milk, it is a nourishing and fulfilling meal for much less than A$1.
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Post by Henry on Jan 7, 2012 8:44:40 GMT -5
Hi Douglas,
It looks like you were in the real Muslim quarter.
I must have visited the tourist (trap) part of the Muslim quarter the last couple times I visited Xi'an.
Beyond the terra cotta soldiers, Xi'an is also noted for its laquerware.
Henry
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Post by douglaslam on Jan 8, 2012 0:33:48 GMT -5
STUMBLING ALONG We often read of people stumbling on a certain site on the internet. Here I am rambling along and literally stumbling on a very old mosque. I was actually looking for the Great Mosque, but found this instead. Is this the Great Mosque? I had no idea. But it confirms my observation of the neglect of the country's antiquities. See for yourselves. Entering through the main gates, I come to this imposing vestibule, for want of a better description, which leads to a courtyard and a prayer hall. Close up of the vestibule, and the neglect is more obvious. Steps leading to the prayer hall which is closed to the visitors. The hall is still in use. A stele with much of its inscription difficult to read because of my poor command of classical Chinese and wear and tear. There is no excuse for the very bad state of preservation. It is an important religious site and a tourism asset. Moreover, the boogey man had been dead for thirty-five years. Two images of a side hall. There is no hiding of the deterioration of the ornate artwork. This couplet in a side chamber speaks volumes of what Islam is about. It is a religion so badly maligned by Islamous extremists who committed heinous crime in the name of a religion that contributed so much to civilisation and knowledge. This is my attempt at translating: The Koran is like the full, bright moon; it shines not for me alone. The holy religion is like a wide boulevard; it restricts no travellers. What a simple proclamation! It is so simple and to the point that even a person with a rudimentary command of written Chinese like me has no difficulty in deciphering. The sights, sounds and smells of the Muslim quarter were an enriching experience. For examples, I saw a bridal shop with mannequins dressed in a mish-mesh of red, the colour of Chinese festivity, and islamic veils. I saw high intensity coal-fired stoves on the footpath, which were boosted by compressed air, with flames shooting out a side outlet. Henry, I think you might have missed the mark. I think my trip to Xi'an is also half-baked. I did not see the lacquer ware or visit many of the famous monuments like the Famen Temple, which ranks second only to the terracotta warriors in significance.
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Post by douglaslam on Jan 9, 2012 6:06:45 GMT -5
THE CITY WALL FROM OUTSIDE As soon as I stepped off the railway station, the City Wall loomed into sight. It hit you full on. I knew there is a city wall, but I hadn't expected such a close encounter at the first instant.The Wall is a defining feature of Xi'an, it is unique to any other city I have been to in China. www.google.com.au/search?q=xian+city+wall&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=fSp&rls=org.mozilla:Seen here is a section outside the railway station that has been heavily modified to accommodate development needs without total destruction. My hostel is sited opposite the Wall. At night the Wall and the watchtower close to us is lit up and bathed in floodlight. It is a spectacular sight. There is a moat with steep embankment on the other side of the Wall. The hostel side of the wall is a narrow street carrying light traffic. On the day of the long walk, I started off early to walk the perimeter of the Wall. This is what I saw. Between the moat and the wall is a long corridor varying it width. Much of it is tree-lined. As open spaces are at a premium in China, here, people are making use of it and exercising without inhibition. It is a scene repeating itself anywhere you go in China. Table tennis tables are placed throughout the long corridor. People do make use of them as there is no breeze at all to make play difficult. All the players, some are quite old, play a very mean game. They can make mince meat of me. Bird lovers, too, have their own niche. It is their inexpensive simple pleasure, for these simple folks probably can't afford expensive past-time like golfing, or motoring This man is returning home with his prized possession, his birds, after the morning's outing. This is a group of Buddhists chanting. COME ALL YE FAITHFUL Not to be outdone, a Christian group is singing hymns. Here we have yet another Christian group handing out flyers and preaching the gospel. This really comes as a surprise. Do these people need permission from the layers of authorities? My heart goes out to them for the Christians are a much maligned group under Mao. Even now they don't have unfettered freedom. I talk to a woman handing out flyers, I congratulate her for her commitment, and conviction under very difficult circumstances. I tell her I admire her courage to fight on and spread what she deeply believes. The Anglican church has the greatest number of converts in China. It is rising much faster than Hong Kong or Taiwan where there is complete religious freedom. Perhaps the powers-that-be don't see the Archbishop of Canterbury as a threat to their authority as much. The same can't be said about the Catholic church. ROUNDING A CORNER After much walking, I come to this round watchtower and turn the corner. Not far away on the opposite side of the wall which would lead to the hostel, is an open street market. Here we have a Muslim hawker doing a roaring trade with his goods. They look like " jung" to me, but I am not 100% sure. ANDING MEN This is the other An Ding , An Ding Men , the Gate of Peace and Stability I come across.Here, as in Beijing, there is a gate by the same name. But the similarity goes no further. The gate in Beijing is in name only. The gates along with the whole city wall had been demolished, much of it by Mao. He knocked down the wall to use the bricks to build his underground nuclear shelter against a possible nuclear attack by his bosom buddy, the Soviets.
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Post by Henry on Jan 9, 2012 8:08:33 GMT -5
Hi Douglas,
I visited the laquerware factory and the products are exquisite.
I know you wanted to, but, too bad you did not get to visit the tomb of HuangDi, the Yellow Emperor - north of Xi'an. There is a a cypress tree that is older than 4,000 years and reputed to have been planted by the Yellow Emperor. This is where I was able to get the surnames booklets for about 100 surnames, each one has the clan totem with explanation and each with about a 100 pages on the origin and history of the surname - invaluable ! The other nice site outside Xi'an was that of Empress Wu Zetian, and the Forest of Stone Steles was very nice.
Henry
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Post by douglaslam on Jan 10, 2012 2:03:27 GMT -5
I had planned to ride a bike or walk the Xi'an City Wall even before leaving home for China. A new-found friend, a serving PLA member based in Tibet was happy to join me for the walk. The distance is 13.7 km. or under nine miles in the old money. I can not do better than what is available online in regard to the history, special features and stats. of this most intact city wall in China. It maybe the best and grandest preserved old world fortification of its kind in the world. The Wall could easily have gone the way of all other fortifications in China, down to nothingness. The Japanese wanted to destroy the Wall one stage, but it was out of range of the bombers. This is my take on the Wall, albeit briefly. IF ONLY THESE WALLS COULD TALK The Wall is well over six hundred years old. It had witnessed the rise and fall of dynasties, and changes in political winds. Looking from the outside, it is apparent that keeping the wall from crumpling is a mammoth task. LOOKING ACROSS No, it is not a Hollywood film set. It is for real. The formidable defence mechanism ensured the city's longevity as a capital for thirteen dynasties. LONG LIVE CATHAY!! WMD FOUND INVASION WASN'T MEANT TO BE EASY More weapons of mass destruction found here. I am not sure how they were deployed and if they were genuine remnants of history, why were they not adequately protected from the elements? BACKPACKERS' ROW This rather quiet stretch of road leads ( to the right) to my hostel. There are other backpacker accommodation and bars along the street I can't imagine Xi'an without its city wall. The City Wall is the soul of the city. Many civic leaders come to regret the decision to destroy their historical treasures. I think the far north-eastern city of Changchun or Shenyang is considering re-building the city wall which was hastily demolished for development only a decade or two ago. I would not want any part of it. Historical sites are just that, historical. They are not Lego sets which you could build, demolish and re-build at will. Notice too, the skyline, you can't see the blue sky or white clouds. Is it the haze or pollution? I'll let you decide. Next instalment may provide the answer. Henry, I did not go on a two day tour of the sites you suggested. One of the reason I didn't want to go is that it took on Yan'an.
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Post by christine on Jan 10, 2012 4:15:52 GMT -5
I enjoyed Muslim communities (or at least their food!) in China, Thailand and Malaysia as well. Though some of these places are not known for heavily Muslim populations, the people and small communities I encountered were great refreshment from the regular scene and the average tourist destinations, and it was great to see everyone live side by side without much of a care about who was different, or how different they were at all. It seemed to be much less of a divider in Asia than I've experienced at home in the States in general, though in Oakland we do have a sizable Muslim population, but Oakland is not the same as most of America.
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Post by douglaslam on Jan 11, 2012 5:09:37 GMT -5
ODDS AND ENDS This entry just about wraps up my visit to Xi'an and Shaanxi province. It is like my previous visits to other cities and provinces, there is no itinerary planning. I, as in the case with other family member(s), go by impulse. As a result, I miss seeing worthwhile sites that I should not have neglected, or leave well before the end destination. HALF-BAKED This is the gateway to Huashan in Shaanxi province. Huashan is one of China's iconic mountains and a Taoism holy site. Allowing barely half a day to do it on foot is just a crazy idea and a waste of money. Promising myself a return visit just as I did with Beijing, Nanjing, Shanghai, Huangshan.......is a tall order because there are so many places in the country I wanted to see. This is the imposing main temple at the foothill. needless to say Mao's Red Guards did not spare it. POSITION, POSITION, POSITION As any real estate sales person would espouse. What is going for these high rise expensive home units on the way to Huashan? These are just a few of the chimney stacks I have seen dotted throughout the landscape. Would filters help to reduce the air particles? Are they responsible for the haze and disappearing sun? MAGNIFICENCE This is the Big Wild Goose Pagoda my PLA friend takes me to see. It is a 1,300 something years old building dedicated to Buddhism. For 50 RMB I thought it was inclusive of climbing to the top. When there is a further charge of 30, I don't want to pay a penny more. It is bordering on fraud. 50 RMB is a junior worker's daily wage. SOUVENIR ALLEY Any major tourism attraction is treated as a cash cow. THE EXCEPTION Admission to the Shaanxi Historical Museum is free. There are many priceless exhibits such as early bronze age artifacts and genuine terracotta warriors and horses. WHAT OR WHO ARE YOU ? This very big beast is at the lobby of the Museum. There is no provenance given in Chinese or English. Take a stab in the dark. I guess I am the best known face on the Forum. It is not that I am egocentric or narcissistic. It so happened the images I wanted to show were taken by my travel companions on the scene. I am getting to know myself better as well. There is no denying I am a senior citizen, and the little kids in China call me grandpa, Ah Gung or Ye Ye as the case maybe. Christine, I can't see the Muslim not getting on with the Han majority. People at Muslim restaurants respect the no alcohol rule, and don't give them a second look for their head gear or scarf. The law makers in Xinjiang take note, strongarm tactics is not the way to go. Respect their religion and culture and all will be fine.
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Post by douglaslam on Jan 12, 2012 5:58:45 GMT -5
SHEKKI, SHEK KEE, OR SHIQI Shekki is the township which all Chungshan people identify with. It is now a part of the greater City of Zhongshan. It was a special occasion to be taken to Shekki for a day trip back in the early 1950s when I was a little boy. We must make the return trip home before dusk because it was a dirt road on which we travelled, and lighting was out of the question. BY NIGHT This is the old part of town looking across the river. Who would have thought this is how the provincial town would look in the 21st century. An old man once told me it was not uncommon for some women in villages within a few miles of the town, who had never been to the town centre, or done trips only with years in between.Travel away from the village was not a common everyday thing. STREET SCENES If you are in no rush and doing a short trip, the tricycle offers an alternative to buses or taxis. There are also motorcycle taxis available. The fenced off area is new development on the river front of the old town. Low-rise one or two storey buildings, which were probably built in the post-Xinhai Revolution era, are knocked down for re-development. That is the fate of most old buildings in China. BOTTOM-FEEDER A bottom-feeder, the economic miracle apparently by-passed him. A CHARMER This was a hotel built in the early 1930s by Gock Chuen of the Gock Bros. who built the Wing On Dept. Store empire. It is on a popular pedestrian mall, The gracious hotel now is in name only. My village brother Ming told me his father once booked into the hotel for one night with him when he was little.Something to remember and tell your grandchildren about. KEEPING UP WITH THE SZE YUP BOYS Taicheng in Toishan has an overseas Chinese museum to perpetuate the achievement of Sze Yup people. Here in Shekki, we are catching up with one of our own. The building was formerly a hospice. It now houses the exhibits until a new one is completed. INDULGENCE It is a little luxury I allow myself. Here I am at the bus terminus in Shekki. While waiting for my bus for Kowloon, Hong Kong, I have my shoes shone. The cost is 2 RMB, which hasn't increased since 2005/6. The migrant woman is in her late 30s or early 40s. Age discrimination in employment is open. She would not be able to work in a production line as a machine operator or seamstress because of her age. A sales position is also out because she speaks no Cantonese and too old for the job. She can't be a waitress ( too old) perhaps, didn't want to be a dishwasher. Anyway, as a shoeshine person, she is her own boss, free to come and go as she likes.
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Post by douglaslam on Jan 13, 2012 5:04:02 GMT -5
Siu Lam or Xiaolan is also a well known town even before the economic boom. The character of the town is changing from that of silk production and agriculture to manufacturing. It is a big centre for locks. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiaolan A very different town from the one I had seen some fifty-five years ago. FLOWER POWER It is the Chrysanthemum Festival time in Xiaolan, a feasting for the eyes. THE GREAT MAN 2011 marks the centenary of the Xinhai Revolution. You cannot escape seeing slogans and portraits of Dr. Sun Yat-sen on hoarding on building sites and other displays. It is accolade well deserved. Here, Dr.Sun is juxtaposed with the residence of his youth in Cuiheng. Cuiheng village is very close to Nam Long and Sai Ah, mugenpower1668's home village. MORE DAZZLING DISPLAYS CALM BEFORE THE STORM Like any sizable town, Xiaolan has its own long distance bus terminal. All the buses provide sleeper berths. They offer an alternative to train travel, or serve areas not covered by the railway. The photo depicts a scene of quiet and orderliness. It should be a hive of activity now, with buses coming and leaving around the clock to transport migrant workers home for the New Year.
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Post by helen on Jan 13, 2012 14:52:33 GMT -5
Thanks for sharing great photos and documentary of your trip. I think it makes us all long to return again.
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Post by douglaslam on Jan 14, 2012 3:30:41 GMT -5
AROUND THE VILLAGES GO GREEN China's green credentials on display. I am not sure how the rental system works. The recycler who comes to you. She counts the plastic bottles and aluminum cans one by one. NICE AND FLUFFY A litter of two sets of very different looking puppies from the same b-itch. It reminds me of a news story that of a German woman who gave birth to twin boys fathered by two men. The owners are looking for good homes for them. It is entirely possible one or two of them may not live to see their second or first birthday before ending up on the table. There are dog nabbers who come out on motorbikes early in the morning and catch stray dogs for the restaurant trade. FIRST CAB OFF THE RANK Outside a kindergarten, parents and tricycle taxis are standing by to take the kids home. CELEBRITY TREE This is one of China's iconic trees, it is protected. The tree is found in Liu Hou , just across the river from tyuti1668's village. It was planted in the Ming Dynasty. Thanks again Helen. I'll wind up my presentation soon.
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Post by Henry on Jan 14, 2012 9:33:30 GMT -5
Douglas,
Thank you for the fantastic photo journey through China !
I am hoping the economic time improve and I can start visiting China - once again.
Henry
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