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Post by douglaslam on Nov 7, 2012 1:04:52 GMT -5
Hi all, I am now in Hong Kong. My flight arrived late at night local time. It took just over thirty mins. to clear immigration, customs, and luggage claim. This is quick even by HK standards. The surprising aspect of the flight was that I was sitting next to a young woman who was from my suburb, she went to the same primary, high school and university with my young daughter, just one year my daughter's junior. The young person is now on a doctorate program at HKU. Amazing!! I caught the bus as suggested by tyuti1668 at HK$33 for the trip to the tourism golden mile with the acronym TST. Soon as I got off the bus, even past 11 pm, touts, all South Asians, were still at work to lure you to the myriad of cheap lodgings and hostels. Mind you, one of the world renowned hotels, The Pen, Peninsula is just a stone throw away. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chungking_Mansions My child booked me into one of the dozens of hostel at this HK's alternative landmark, Chung King Mansion. It has the biggest concentration of Sth. Asians, Nepalese, Africans, in long term or transit residence. Ther was a fire with high casualties in this high density building some years ago. I checked the fire installation, it seemed adequate. My preference was the one I lodged at last year, on Argyle St. But it was booked out. This particular one at the Chung King is operated by Pakistani, Indian or Sri Lankan. There is no common area as in China, or Argyle St. there is no natural light at the tiny reception or the naroow, twisting hallway with doors closely bunched together. It is a very oppressive, and claustrophobic feeling. it is not for everyone. But, I am at one of the world's most expensive stretch of real estate. I get what I pay for. I am experiencing something new. The six bed dorm I am assigned to is full, there are two young Dutch backpackers, I can't make out the other two because it was past mid-night. It is crammed, there is private amenities. Because of the time difference, and my body clock, tired as I was, I still woke up before 5 am. Photos on my return to Sydney. My phone number is +852+6125 1884.
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Post by douglaslam on Nov 12, 2012 2:41:48 GMT -5
Hi all,
I now in Dongguan, leaving HKG at 9:30. and arriving at 11:00am local time, just on two and a half hours bus trip. The fare is HK$120 one way.My aunt's place is just minutes away on foot from the terminus. She is happy to see me, and I her. I just want to spend a few days with her, talking with her, accompanying her to our early morning visit to the restaurant to have tea and food. I will also take time to visit Helen's village, which is not too far away by bus and motor bike taxi. I feel confident enough to do it on my own.
I am fastly becoming a China hand, I am familiar with customs and immigration clearance. Things are streamlined, the HKG and China border formalities are all under the same roof. Customs on both sides don't want to see your bags. Just walk straight through.
I had a hectic few days in HKG. It was warm to hot until Sunday. The hostel is OK, being in the top bunk, I can't sit up. Chungking Mansion is just as well known to the locals as the iconic Peninsula Hotel, where the clients are picked up in a Rolls-Royce. Guess who pays?
Chungking Mansion is a big housing block with adjoining arcades, creating a labyrinth of all manners of shops and small businesses. It has a large South Asian and African presence. Those who shared the dorm with me included German, Dutch, Brits. Spanish, Canadian, and perhaps others, all young persons, both male and female. I am certainly was the old man of the room.
I felt safe. The amount I spent for six nights there, won't even get me one night at any of the hotels like The Pen, Holiday Inn, Sheraton, Langham etc. in the neighbourhood. I have better things to do with my money in China.
Bone picking or exhumation was common in the days when the Chinese could not bring their families to their host countries. WW ll, and communism put an end to it. But it is still carried out today in Guangdong. My village brother is happy doing what he is doing, bone picking. Now,it is the low season. He can find time to go travelling with me.
My number for the duration of my stay in China is +86+150 1533 7144
Douglas
PS, Fay Chee, the hostel on Argyle St. is called Ah Shan. It is roomier, large common area with a TV, PC terminals, and clothline if needed. The one in Chungking Mansion where I stayed is called Day and Night. Because of the large numbers of travellers from the mainland, hotel prices are going up, even those lower down the chain are experiencing a bumper season.
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Post by FayChee on Nov 12, 2012 19:02:02 GMT -5
Douglas, I found the Ah Shan Hostel website where you can make online reservations. I can see why you would prefer it....more room. I'll keep it in mind for when my brother and I travel.
Sincere House 83 Argyle Street, Hong Kong 9248 2319 ahshanhostel.com 5 篇評論
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Post by douglaslam on Nov 13, 2012 5:08:58 GMT -5
Today, I had my first major exercise just to keep my weight increase to 3 kgs on my return to Sydney as it was the usual occurrence. I couldn't do it in HKG because lugging my passport and money and run is just impractical. I didn't want to leave valuables unattended at the hostel.
As I had said often, I am gonna visit member Helen's ancestral village. And I did.
Helen's husband, and therefore Helen's village Gwa Leng is only small. It is a single family name, the Wong village. It was a rewarding visit because I was shown the village's best known landmark, a unique diaolou ( google, for those who are not familiar) amongst all the diaolous in Guangdong. Helen herself has not been shown inside. I am indeed privileged.
I took a bus 2 RMB, to a huge terminus, then another one for 6. No sooner had I hopped off the bus, hordes of motorcycle taxis descended on me. 15 RMB was the cheapest ride to the village.
On my return, the kind villager who showed me the diaolou led me to the bus stop, 2 RMB to town, 6 more on another bus. It was past 3 when I stopped to have a noodle lunch for 12. 2 more for the ride home. All up it cost me 45 RMB. I'll send you the bill, Helen.
I'll give a detailed report with photos once back in Sydney.
Fay Chee, you will China very affordable. You too might find affinity with your father's old home. There are many hostels in HKG, don't limit yourself to the one I preferred. Be warned: At Ah Shan, I walked the 14 flights of stairs when there were long queues waiting for the lift.
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Post by FayChee on Nov 13, 2012 19:13:45 GMT -5
Douglas, it seems that I should start exercising now to get in shape for my trip to China. I love to do things as a commoner would do including walking to places, biking, buses, and ferry boats whenever possible. Observing in the natural settings of life hold the best of memories. I know that I will love my dad's Ancestral home no matter what. Fay Chee
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Post by douglaslam on Nov 14, 2012 2:53:07 GMT -5
I am doing exactly what I set out to do ; spending time with my aging aunt. To re-recap, my aunt ran away from home when she was not yet twenty, to join the PLA. That was well over sixty years ago. The family, my grandparents in particular, were livid for what had happened to us later on. To make things worse, a younger brother also joined her. I guess they were swept up by the high ideals and aspiration for a changing China. The young brother's identity was later used to facilitate the entry to Canada of grandfather's nephew. Auntie recalls as a little girl hiding behind a door, seeing her father leave for Canada the last time in 1935 or 1936 ( have to check gf's Head Tax Cert.) early one morning. There was no hugging and kissing. The next time she saw him was in the 1970s when grandfather was in advanced dementia. A typical story of a Chinese family whose main ricewinner is overseas. Auntie eventually married her CO, and settled in Dongguan wikitravel.org/en/Dongguan , now a second tier city in China. Aunt's husband was a senior officer in the local command. Just like auntie, he was a very caring, considerate, and decent person. Aunt was a senior cadre, on retirement, she draws a fabulous pension plus benefits. I could live very comfortably on her pension here. This morning I went with her to her favourite restaurant for yum cha ( or dim sums for some of us.) Although she has a full time carer, she doesn't want her to eavesdrop on her conversations at the table. This helper has not been with her for long. That section of the restaurant is reserved for the early risers and retirees. They all pay their bills before 8, and save on tea charges. After discounting, our bill came to only A$4 or so. As you can see Fay Chee, China is very affordable. Good hotel rooms in second tier cities can be had for a very reasonable amount. If you go to Hoiping, a third tier city, you can have a top rated hotel room for US$40-50 / night. Live it up. In the past, a lot of the travelling was on flat-bottom river barges towed by tugboats at night. Now, it is all tollways, expressways, lightrails, and what not. I miss those days before the mad rush for development. The rivers and waterways now fall silent. You don't know what you are missing Fay Chee. By next Monday, I'll be in Chungshan, and getting down to details on how best to tackle the task at hand. There are many places I am gonna call with my village brothers.
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Post by mugenpower168 on Nov 14, 2012 5:43:30 GMT -5
Auntie eventually married her CO, and settled in Dongguan wikitravel.org/en/Dongguan , now a second tier city in China. Aunt's husband was a senior officer in the local command. Just like auntie, he was a very caring, considerate, and decent person. Aunt was a senior cadre, on retirement, she draws a fabulous pension plus benefits. I could live very comfortably on her pension here. Just a question out of curiosity, is your aunt your father's sister? If not, how is she related to you and which village is she from?
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Post by FayChee on Nov 14, 2012 8:58:24 GMT -5
Douglas, I read all about Dongguan on the link you provided. Now I want to go to Hoiping and Dongguan too! It said there is a ferry from Hong Kong to Dongguan and it has Huanghe Fashion Town, an excellent place to shop. It sounds like a very very large city, like New York or bigger. I did take heed of the last paragraph titled "Stay Safe".
Your Auntie sounds like such an interesting person with wonderful stories of her exciting life. The kind of stories that only the most favorite would be trusted to hear, and what would put a novel on the 'best-sellers' list. I remember the pictures of you and her in your last travellog.
I am curious if I will find any remaining relatives in my village.........I loooooove Dim Sum! Fay Chee
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Post by douglaslam on Nov 15, 2012 2:12:34 GMT -5
I have been coming to the same internet cafe everyday. The manager knows me by sight, no ID asked for, he sits me down in a private booth with natural light and a fan. I also befriended the female shopkeeper from whom I bought my SIM card. She is just such a nice person that I'd drop by each time after going online, to buy a can of beer just to make her feel special. BTW it costs only 6RMB for a Budweisser, a top brand here, less than A$1.
Like most internet cafes in China, this one has over a hundred terminals. I prefer to sit by a window so that I can see better. I have my own private space now, I am spared from the smokers' fume.
Fay Chee, I guess I am becoming my aunt's favourite nephew because lately I have been spending more time with her. Even my daughter likes her company. Auntie said casually once that those nephews and nieces closer to her in HKG don't visit her for years whereas I'd come half way across the world to be with her for a few days. She didn't like living in a gated estate with her son. The house has three floors. It was built on land granted to her husband as a senior officer. But the house is now boxed in by taller buildings. The upper levels are brighter but in neglect, a typical empty nester's.
This morning after our dim sum breakfast, we went to the market to shop for our lunch. We bought freshwater fish, I added a few fish air bladders. They are very chewy. We also had half of a chicken, free range of course, cooked in rock salt. The vendor shredded it by hand, added a mixture of ginger powder and pepper, then, spring onions, a little of oil and sesame oil, then tossed the lot by hand. The price? 14RMB or $2.20. Beat that!
Another thing you maybe interested Fay Chee, is what you'd pay to go to a hairdresser's for a thorough treatment. (Show me a woman who doesn't like having her hair done!!) Don't ever go past the hairdresser's for a full treatment, you wouldn't have to think twice In China, I go to the hairdresser's often. I had a shampoo, scalp massage, haircut, a shave and facial hair removal with a cutthroat razor, all for 25RMB, about A$4. That is less than half what I'd pay for a most basic haircut done in less than 5 mins. back home. I got at least twenty mins. of sheer luxurious pampering. It is a little dearer than in the village, but I am not complaining. I looked a few years younger when I walked out of the shop. I'll go back for more.
Kin, the auntie is my father's younger sister. She is the younger of a set of twins. Her twin brother died in Canada over forty years ago. He originally went to Cuba.
I'll be in Chungshan and Sai Ah within days because my bone-picker companion is celebrating a major milestone, his 61st. birthday on Sunday, 18th. He knew I was returning, and wants me to be his guest at his dinner party. I still have the village ( Sai Ah )contact person's number. He gave it to me last year. A very welcoming fellow he was.
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Post by tyuti1668 on Nov 15, 2012 2:44:35 GMT -5
...there is a ferry from Hong Kong to Dongguan ... From airport ONLY | www.cksp.com.hk | The ferry from urban HK is defeated by bus.
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Post by FayChee on Nov 15, 2012 8:50:29 GMT -5
Douglas, Those nieces and nephews in Hong Kong are missing some precious moments by not visiting Auntie more often, but 'life' has a way of getting in the way and blind-sighting us to the real treasures around us. They may have to be our ages to discover this, but of course it will be too late to partake of the treasured moments with Auntie Kin. I try to never miss an opportunity to sit and spend time with the older generations.
Thanks for the ingredients to that rock salted chicken, I may try it with left-over rotissery chicken from the grocery store. Now the fish air bladder is a new one for me....sounds a little like squid....chewy.....how is it prepared? Do you stuff it with something? Fry it?
You are right, I will definitely take advantage of the hairdresser for those luxurious treatments that are so expensive here in the US. Maybe foot massages too!
Enjoy the birthday party with the bone picker!
Fay Chee
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Post by FayChee on Nov 15, 2012 8:52:19 GMT -5
Tyuti, thanks for posting the Ferry map! I saved it for when I travel. Can you tell me which of the arrows go to Dongguan? Does it say how long it takes?
Fay Chee
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Post by lachinatown on Nov 15, 2012 15:43:03 GMT -5
Not shown on the map, Fay Chee. Dongguan is east of the top one, Lianhuashanzhen.
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Post by FayChee on Nov 15, 2012 20:51:21 GMT -5
Thanks Lachinatown, I am guessing that East would be on the right side of the top site (9)?
Do any of those characters spell a city near my dad's home like Kaiping (Chaoyang) or Taishan ? I am guessing that the far left upper thing may be.
Fay Chee
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Post by douglaslam on Nov 16, 2012 1:34:07 GMT -5
AS in my last visit, I joined my auntie to a monthly morning yum cha meeting for retirees in Dongguan who were hailed from my county. They relish on each occasion to speak in our unique dialect. Some of them are very rusty, I. the one who lived abroad speaks better than any one of them.
On this occasion, there were 11 people present, I was the only male. Much to my surprise, there was a younger retiree than me. This young retiree's mother was also there, and she came from my village. According to the clan generational poem, I am on the same generation as her mother. Therefore I called her mother older sister, the young retiree called me uncle. Of course, my auntie is higher than all three of us.
The party is well-educated and lived in comfortable retirement. The system and freeing up of the economy did not do them any harm. Some thought nothing of paying 20kRMB on a trip to the U.S.
Fay Chee, I think you and your brother are sitting very high on the clan hierarchy. The air bladders were cooked with the rest of the fish, no stuffing. You can have pedicure, manicure, foot massage, facial treatment and hair styling all for a fraction what it would cost in the U.S.
To Doug Joe, I brought up Joe Shoong in our conversation, one woman claimed she knew LTW well and attended Joe Shoong School. She was sure Joe Shoong did not have any children, and that his wife was killed by Japanese bombing. Is she to be believed? I'll sort it out for myself.
BTW, Member mugenpower168 is an alias for Kin, I am going back to his village Sai Ah also.
I'll probably not have the use of a computer tomorrow.
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