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Post by douglaslam on Nov 26, 2014 7:15:45 GMT -5
More snaps on my trip to show. They are not in any organised way. Ken, one more photo from Shek Doi. This is what it looks like when a very good, solid family home disintegrating in front of your eyes. It is the result of neglect and abandonment. The owners might have emigrated overseas or chose to live where there are jobs. Shek Doi would be a good retreat for an artist or writer. It is so quiet and peaceful yet close enough to the township Duanfen. I choose to lodge in inexpensive hotels when I am on the road. This photo was taken at my hotel room in Foshan / Futshan 佛山. What you are seeing is the bedside table, which is propped up by aluminum cans. For this twin bed unit I shared with Ming, it cost 120 RMB, or less than U.S.$20 / night. We haggled the price down to a round figure. It has air conditioning, private amenities. and a computer. It is quite acceptable if you just want a place with hot shower, air conditioning, clean bed and linen. Fay Chee, this is where you will board the bus for Taicheng if you do make the trip next year. I am sure you can make out the signage, you can see Taishan and Xinhui. If you prefer to be picked up at the airport, Shi Cheng can arrange that too. I was at this big transport hub in Canton where the trains, the Metro and buses meet. Any day of the year, it is a madhouse of a transport hub, with so many people coming and going. I caught a bus to my home town from here. This is Taicheng. The second building from the left is the hotel I stayed with Ming when we missed the last bus for our home town. I chose a computer room. Again it is at 120 RMB / night after bargaining. The tall building to the right is the bus terminus. This is the place where I arrive at and depart every time I come to Toishan. It is also from here we made our way to Duanfen. One morning back in my village, there was thick, black smoke in the neighbourhood. It got into every nook and cranny. Windows were hurriedly shut but no one was alarmed. The reason; just two doors away from where I was, there is a makeshift pig slaughterhouse and roasting workshop. On that morning, there was an order for two roast pigs, and the boys got to work. This is the backyard commercial slaughterhouse and oven, which is on the top left corner. The thick black smoke was caused by lighting of the fire. The slaughtering and roasting facilities are used only when there are orders. This is the roasting oven. Tree branches, unwanted timber etc., are used for fuel. The two pigs are in the roasting process. It takes two men to lift each one out for attention. This partly cooked carcass is taken out to clean out blemishes. It is then return to the oven for about 45 minutes, slow cook in the radiant ember. The slaughtering area is to the left, hidden from view. This is the final result, a golden roast pig 金豬. The slaughtering and preparation area would not meet the high cleanliness and hygiene standards we are used to. But, that matters little because the carcasses are cook in very high temperature. No germs or bacteria can survive. On this day, there was an order for two roast pigs. The occasion was a "house warming moving-in party." But it was no ordinary house warming party. The customer was actually re-burying or placing in a shrine, the skeletal remains or ashes of his ancestor. In our custom, that is moving to a new home. It calls for celebrations, and a roast pig or two is in order. The roast pig is now ready to be taken home by the customer on his motor bike . It is properly decorated for the occasion. Fay Chee, the pig is just like the one your nephew had bought to take to your grandfather's graveside. It is probably cooked in a similar way. You can do the same for your grandfather too next year. When the formalities are finished, you can divide up the pig for the good folk of Chao Yang to share. What a happy and practical way to pay respect, and remember your ancestors. I like our customs and traditions. A good size pig can cost about U.S.$250 to $300. What do you think of it?
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Post by helen on Nov 27, 2014 4:35:33 GMT -5
Awesome photos Douglas. We had a whole roast pig when I got married - cooked by my Grand Uncle. Can still remember it to this day.
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Post by FayChee on Nov 28, 2014 15:06:05 GMT -5
Hi Douglas,
I love the pictures of how the crispy pig is made and especially how it is transported on the back of a scooter.
I have alot of catching up to do. I had surgery on my right wrist for carpal tunnel syndrome and still recuperating. My left wrist will be done next. The holidays are on us now and I have alot of online shopping to do.
I spoke with my Nephew's family and we are all eager to make the trip to China next year. They are not sure if they will be able to go in October though.
Fay Chee
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Post by tyuti1668 on Nov 29, 2014 5:32:24 GMT -5
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Post by douglaslam on Nov 29, 2014 17:19:41 GMT -5
Fay Chee, any time is a good time for your first visit to China. That said, try to avoid the hot, humid and wet monsoon season. If your nephew and family can go with you; it's all good. I'll try my best to rearrange my leave to join your party. If you choose to go in October, and Shi Cheng is free to help, the two of us will look after you from arrival to departure. Either way, you'd be in good hands, and a happy time is ensured.
tyuti1668, I have lots of experiences riding on the back of scooters and motorbikes in China. After a long trip of about two hours with only short breaks, I could hardly lift my leg to get off the machine. It was very uncomfortable. I also used motorcycle taxi on occasions, once two persons on the same machine. Motorcycles in China are just what the article is describing. They are generally dirty, caked in mud and dust, very little attention on appearance and cleanliness. They are not show ponies, they are made for hard work.
Helen, did you have a traditional wedding in Auckland? Your parents would have to distribute wedding cakes to friends and relatives, and you'd have on a very loud red traditional gown. Please let us have a look at some of those photos.
Douglas
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Post by helen on Nov 29, 2014 19:16:46 GMT -5
Hi Douglas - No an English wedding - Just the pig was the Chinese aspect. We were poor and had to borrow money against my insurance policy, for the wedding reception. My Dad had passed away when I was just 12, and L C's parents were in China. Started life on the back foot. This is the pig my brother had at his wedding - roasted by the same Grand Uncle. The Chef is my brother in law. he did all the catering for me as well. When my daughter got married 2 years ago, we had a suckling pig roasted for her as well.
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Post by FayChee on Nov 29, 2014 23:43:18 GMT -5
I am not quite sure, but I think Tyuti is trying to tell me that 'scooter' is not the correct term for what the crispy pig is being transported on......I was going to call it a motor cycle, but it looked too small for that. The link shows a nice looking motor bike, so I guess that would be an upgrade from scooter. I showed my brother the pictures of how they make the crispy pig in China and we were both giggling when we saw this large yummy mouth watering animal strapped to the back of the motor bike without protection from the elements. Can't wait to sink my teeth into a large chuck of that crispy skin........... Fay Chee
ps-when my brother read the part about 'cleaning out the blemishes', he said 'worms'....I said yuck....no not worms, but now it is stuck in my mind. Are they cleaning out worms that come out of the meat or just imperfections? I think my brother is a kidster......
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Post by douglaslam on Nov 30, 2014 7:36:36 GMT -5
Helen and Fay Chee, it seems we are all partial to some good roast pork Chinese style. What you see in my post is what you'll get, no fancy footwork. The blemishes are just some overcooked bits getting scraped off.
The busiest season, you might have guessed it,is during the third lunar month which means Ching Ming Festival. The two men would engage three extra helpers to cope with the huge increase in demand. The three helpers would do the slaughtering, preparation, and seasoning of the carcasses. The other two would be flat out roasting pig after pig. They would work non-stop day and night right through the weekend.
You see times are different now. Many villagers are working in cities and towns, young ones who attend school or boarders, would come home, family members would be arriving from Hong Kong, Macau, and even overseas to pay their respects to the ancestors. Most of them want to do it on the weekend. It is family time. Ching Ming is enjoying a great revival since Monster Mao kicked the bucket. Thus, there is the big rush for roast pigs on Saturday and Sunday during Ching Ming. The five workers would go without sleep throughout.
I've been sending money each year for just such a purpose. Most people away from home would do so. I am going to send a little more next year because things are getting more expensive daily. I will have a small pig for my ancestors, and the people who are staying in my house would have the lion's share. It is a marvellous tradition. Long may it last.
Fay Chee, I think you and your nephew should get together and discus about sending a small sum to China each year for a roast pig to honour your grandfather and other ancestors. I am sure someone in Chao Yang can be entrusted with the task. Let's do our part to uphold this great tradition.
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Post by lolly on Dec 2, 2014 4:56:58 GMT -5
Hi Douglas
Happy to check back in and see that you are continuing to give us such a wonderful feel for the sights and customs of China still practised today. Have to say that the roast pig pics certainly promote active salivation! Encourages consideration of participating in the tradition should the opportunity arise. We will be in Sydney in early January and will try to catch up with you while we are there.
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Post by douglaslam on Dec 2, 2014 6:10:43 GMT -5
Hi Laraine, so early January it is going to be. You, Bill and Uncle Denis shall be my guests at The Marigold for a yum cha lunch meeting. Agreed? Good.
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Post by douglaslam on Dec 8, 2014 6:17:34 GMT -5
Fay Chee is curious about loos over fish ponds. This one is similar to a fish pond loo, and it is the only one I have seen in recent years. It used to be a common sight, and was meant for public use. I used them in my early childhood. I found this beauty on a day out with my companions. This one offers better privacy, and it is odourless. The shack is made of pine bark. We were on our way to a little township called 大鰲 Da'ao , Dai Ngau , or something like that in Cantonese. Tyuti1668 and lachinatown might be able to pinpoint it on a map. Dai Ngau used to belong to my county Chungshan; it now comes under Xinhui. The reason; this little township is on the other side of a river from ours. It is closer to Xinhui, linked by a bridge I believe. By meerly crossing a river, the native population here speaks a different dialect, not Sze Yup, but a distinctive one of their own. They were mainly boat people. In the past, they lived and worked by the river and sea. They also worked the land. Now, only vestiges of the past are still remain. This is cultural diversity for you, just on the other side of a river, a very distinctive sub-culture thrives. Tanka people - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanka_peopleDai Ngau is famous for its seafood market. People would go there to sell and buy freshwater and salthingyer marine product. We missed market time, ended up just having a walk around. We couldn't even find a decent restaurant to have a meal. The one we lunched at was a very poor eating place. To get to Dai Ngau, we must get to my cousin's village Dip Shek 叠石. Some of you may remember I was there on a few occasions and presented detailed photo reports in past years. I can't give you the page number because I am not a well-organised person. Something special about Dip Shek is that many villagers here are still working the land, growing rice. It is a rare sight these days to see rice drying in the sun. This traditional rural activity is still alive at Dip Shek village. Dip Shek is one of a few villages in the district can still boast of a good rice crop, the very staple of the population. Rice-drying in the sun is full time work. You have to turn it frequently in order for it to dry evenly. Any signs of rain, you'd need to cover them quickly because if the rice got really wet and didn't get to dry out, shoots would sprout which would make the grain useless. There are many people working in the sun to dry the harvested rice. It is labour intensive because the rice has to be turned every fifteen to twenty minutes. This man is using a rake to turn the rice grain. This is how it is done traditionally. From Dip Shek,叠石, a Yee or Yu 余 village, it is about a 50 minute walk to the ferry landing for Da'ao, Dai Ngau 大鰲 . My two companions are with me. This is a narrow road with little motor traffic, certainly no big trucks because they cannot pass each other. This section is called Dachong Greenway 大涌緑道, and it becomes Henglan Greenway 横 欄緑道 as it extends to the township of Henglan. I rode on the back of a motor scooter travelling this road a few days earlier. It is a pleasant walk because there are few people about, on either side there are tree plantations,crops, and vegetable patches. To the left is the river, The Xijiang or West River 西江 of the Pearl River Network. The river is relatively clean because it is the source of much of the drinking water. This is a smaller ferry which conveys passengers, motorcycles and bicycles. It costs 1 RMB for each of us to cross the river. About two or three hundred metres away is the larger vehicular ferry landing, which carries passengers for free. We also tried this one. The Tanka way of life is still evident here. Many of the traditional pine bark dwellings are still standing. Here, we have a small shop selling cigarettes, drinks and snacks. Business is very slow. It is a short walk from the ferry landing, on the way to town. This is the home to an old woman. In this cluttered small cubicle, I can see a bed with mosquito netting. The old woman perhaps lives alone or with her husband. This is her whole world. I did not want to be intrusive and take interior shots without permission. This man is seen fishing the same stretch of water with the loo on stilts. I did not see anything in the net he pulled in.
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Post by FayChee on Dec 13, 2014 10:48:34 GMT -5
Douglas, thanks so much for posting pictures of the loo and of this wonderful rural life. I've never seen rice piled up so nicely like that and am amazed that all those piles have to turned every 15-20 minutes.......what a big undertaking.
I didn't see anything that resembled a loo in the pictures that my nephew took of our village.
Fay Chee
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Post by douglaslam on May 27, 2015 6:33:35 GMT -5
HAVE CASH WILL TRAVEL With a fistful of euros in one hand, pound sterling in the other, and Aussie dollars in the pocket, I am ready to roll. Yes, I am embarking on my maiden trip to Europe and The UK. In fact, it is just four more sleeps away for I am departing on May 31 our time, bound for Frankfurt via Kuala Lumpur and London. I am travelling with my young daughter. The genesis of the trip goes back seven years ago. In 2008, my daughter was on an exchange scholarship at Peking University. There, she made lasting friendship with a few fellow international students. One, a German girl is getting married in June, and an invitation was sent to my daughter. It so happened my son-in-law could not make the trip. I dared to suggest if I maybe invited to go along. In no time at all, an invitation was duly extended to me. We are flying with Malaysian Airlines. MH offer competitive fares and I want to support them in a practical way after those two unfortunate events. Our destination is Freiburg, a German provincial city. After the main event, we may go to Austria, then France and England. We are not tied down to an itinerary. The countries are so closely bunched together; we could easily found ourselves in Switzerland, Italy or any number of other countries. My daughter is handling everything online. We are lodging through Airbnb. It is something new for both of us. Airbnb is an excellent alternative to expensive hotel accommodation especially during the northern summer. I shall report on my experiences for all to share. It would be impertinet for me to post reports on 'My Excellent Adventures in Europe.' I am out of depth and comfort zone. There aren't that many Chinatowns for me to make my observation, compare and contrast. There are many, many fellow Forum members who have better knowledge of Europe and The UK. And our Moderator Henry is the best travelled in our midst. It is a pity we have no regular contributors in Europe, other wise I'd make an effort to catch up in person. ----------------------------------------------------- Fay Chee, this is for you. The time is never better to make your first trip to China, find the hamlet Chao Yang, the house that your grandfather built and meet all the Szeto clan there. You are in semi-retirement, time is on your side. There is Shi Cheng in China who can smooth everything out for you. My village brothers and I would be there to make it an even bigger happening. If you and your brother Lew and sister have the travel bug, I can accompany you to any part of China you wish to go. The Forbidden Palace? No worries. The Great Wall? That you must see, it is the most symbolic icon of China. Though you were born outside of China, The Great Wall is as much your heritage as it is mine. Go for it. My next leave, five weeks, is in October. I / Shi Cheng can meet you on arrival in China, you'll be escorted every step of the way. You'll be in good hands. Douglas
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Post by FayChee on May 27, 2015 8:57:35 GMT -5
Hi Douglaslam,
You are always so good at urging me to take that long trip to my Ancestry Village and you do it so well. I always feel like jumping on the next plane and seeing China through my own eyes for a change, but with you and those wonderful Village Brothers of yours.....yes, you can always get my blood rushing for adventure and I vow that I will do it this time.....then reality sets in....semi-retired isn't enough, I must be fully retired if I want to really enjoy this great adventure with a free heart. Oh Douglaslam, when I 'grow up' I want to be just like you!.
Have a wonderful trip with your daughter, we'll all be thinking of you!
Fay Chee
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Post by helen on May 28, 2015 4:20:57 GMT -5
Douglaslam - have a fantastic trip to Europe. We were there a year ago and had a fantastic time. My sister in law is in London at the moment and will be hoping over the channel. You must send photos of every Chinese place you come across- not many though.
Faychee - you must take some time off work to go - 2-3 weeks is long enough to whet your appetite. Please make it in October - a nice time to be in China.
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